Day 7: Last thoughts and heading home!

After a not so great night’s rest I checked out of the Marriott and headed to the airport. I was flying back out of FCO to IST where I had a couple hour layover. I’m not going to chat about the IST airport because I already discussed it. Did I mention to grab a trolley as soon as you see one? Because you should. Especially if you are sick.

The flight home was bad. Not that the flight was bad, I was bad. By this time I was so sick (on and off fevers, chills, coughing) that all I wanted to do was get home. And I constantly tried to “look better” because I didn’t want the Airport Powers That Be to think I had Ebola. Because I knew I didn’t but I didn’t want to have that conversation. This is where Global Entry comes in handy. No standing in line with the unwashed masses getting into Boston Logan airport. You just breeze through with hardly anyone looking at you. Best $100 I ever spend. I estimate the line to get back in was 45 minutes or longer. Yeah, I’m so not doing that.

Italy was amazing! I had a wonderful time (even with being sick) and would totally go back again. Not only did all the historical places not fail to disappoint, having the option of hanging out with folks who live in Rome really provided a fabulous experience. Any time you can hang with the locals makes for a more well-rounded trip.

***Michelle’s tip:  I think for my next Italy trip I would perhaps try and do a “region” instead of hitting places so far apart (Venice and Rome). I knew that for my first visit I wanted to see these two cities but the travel time does cut down on the sightseeing time. It was fine, but going forward I think that I would pick a “region” and then make multiple trips to Italy. It is a huge country and so many things to see that you can’t do it all. So don’t try. Enjoy what you can see and just go back another time! Oh and please try the gelato. All flavors.   J

Day 6: Venice to Rome!

Today was our last morning in Venice as we were taking the 1 pm train back to Rome. We had one major thing on our itinerary and that was to visit a store that I had found in my Venice guidebook. So after breakfast and checking out of the hotel we set off. The decision was made to carry our bags along with us because we were not going to be able to have any place to store them and our morning was going to take us closer to the train station. Logistically it was the best decision. For my back it was the worst decision. Thanks in advance to Chris and Gigi who took turns carrying my duffel bag. Did I mention I was still sick??

The store we wanted to visit is called Arras. It is a shop that sells woolens and silks that are woven by a cooperative that employs disabled folks. Both Chris and I have family members who are disabled and we really like to patronize these shops. Their online website (albeit in Italian) looked interesting. So we set off.

https://arrastessuti.wordpress.com

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. Thank the gods for Gigi and his knowledge of Italian. This was not an easy shop to find. And although I have mad Google Maps Street View skills (which helped when we actually found the place and I declared “there it is, it looks like it does on street view”) this shop was a little out of the way.  You had to go through the academic portion of the island and run into quite a few students and such. Not that that’s a bad thing. Just less touristy.

Once inside Arras Gigi was going to stay outside with our bags (this is a small shop). But once Chris and I got inside and started trying to speak with the woman at the counter, we realized we needed Gigi. So he was only too glad to come inside and converse with the lady. He explained that we had family members who are disabled and chatted about how the place operated and such. Apparently the co-op also employs prison inmate to make some of the goods, in addition to disabled folks. It was quite interesting. And we all bought something. I have a lovely mohair scarf that was woven by the co-op people. It was 30 Euro but well worth it. So soft!!!

Lovely and so soft!

Postcard the shop gave us. 

After our stay at the shop we started walking to the train station. We were getting closer to the time we needed to be there and since I was walking a little slower we headed out. After a few wrong turns we ended up at the train station and stopped for a quick sandwich at a place near the station. Not the best sandwiches but Chris and Gigi enjoyed their mini pizzas. We headed inside and found a place in the train station to post up and have a coffee and wait for boarding time. After taking turns staying with the bags while others went to the shops and the rest room we boarded the train anticipating a nap for the ride back to Rome.

Chris and Gigi were staying at a different AirBNB while I was back at the Marriott Grand Flora. So once we got into Rome’s Termini train station we parted ways with Gigi getting me a cab and telling the cab driver in Italian that I was a very important person and take good care of me. Heh.

A check in and rest we then met back up at the Termini station (central to each other’s hotel) and headed for our last stop in the trip. EatItaly. Now they have these places in Chicago and New York but I have never been. At this point I was so done, getting sicker by the minute but I was not going to spend my last night in Rome wasting away in the hotel room. I was going, dammit!!

http://www.eataly.net/it_it/negozi/roma

We had to take the Metro out a bit from the city center but again Gigi knew (basically) where we were going. EatItaly is an old train station that was built for a soccer tournament that sat empty but is now turned into this food paradise with a grocery store/kitchen store attached. It is huge and a little overwhelming. We walked around a bit and decided on pasta for dinner.

I felt bad that I had little to now appetite and was really fading fast. (Turns out that I had the flu and had a good reason to feel bad). The food was great and it is a really cool place but try as I might I couldn’t get it together. I just wanted to sleep. Or collapse. Whichever came first. So after dinner instead of taking the Metro Gigi got me a cab and I said goodbye to my Italian tour guide buddies. They were staying another week and I was flying out the next morning.

After getting back to the Marriott and securing my taxi for early the next morning I finished packing and fell into bed completely exhausted.

***Michelle’s tip:  I should have just found a doctor to see me about my illness. If I had started on Tamiflu earlier my time in Venice and last night in Rome would have been more pleasant. For myself and my traveling companions.

Day 5: The day I ran around Venice sicker than a dog!

Today we set out to see the sights of Venice! After breakfast in the hotel (which was a decent spread and included in the price) we set off. Now once I woke up this morning I knew it: I was sick. Aches, pains, sore throat and headache all started in sometime in the night. I was in trouble. But dammit I was going to push through it. We only had ONE day here! So I Advil’d up and off we went.

***Just as an FYI if you find yourself sick in Venice you need to have a couple of gay friends to take care of you. Seriously. They brought me hot tea, juice and a croissant for breakfast. They waited on me. They treated me wonderful! If you don’t have your own gay friends then please go find some. Trust me on this!

So we are off! Our first stop was to take the Vaparetto to the Island of Murano. Murano is known for their glass blowing factory with lovely showrooms where you can purchase stuff. The actual workshop that we visited was much smaller than what I expected but it was so cool. You sit on bleacher like benches and watch as they well, blow the glass. There is a nice dude who explains everything in either Italian or English and answers questions. The entire “show” is about 20 minutes long and then you can go into the showroom area to look at items for purchase.

And yes, I purchased. I had gone into this knowing that I would probably look at glass bowls to purchase. And I found a lovely one, green and blue and kind of curved edges. Now this particular shop is an “official Murano” glass shop. Apparently they have “fake ones” all over the place. So you get a certificate of authenticity with your purchase. And I was able to negotiate 10 Euro off the price (thanks to Gigi who suggested it)!

From there we took the boat to the island of Burano. Now while Murano is known for glass blowing, Burano is known for lace making. Apparently the wives of the fisherman who lived on this island needed to make some cash while their dudes were off fishing. So they started making lace and it became a “thing”. There is a lace museum but we didn’t visit that while we were here. We simply walked around and did a little looking and a little shopping.

Now Murano may be the more well known of the islands but I can say that for sheer beauty, I fell in love with Burano. We even talked about when we come back one day not staying in Venice proper and getting an AirBNB on Burano. The colors of the houses were so lovely and it had that kind of small town charm that I loved. I am sure that during the evening there are limited areas to eat and it’s probably really quiet once the tourists go but that sounds great to me!!

I think I want to live here!

Burano colorful houses!

After a quick gelato snack we headed back to the boats to get back to Venice proper. It took a little longer than we thought, as the boats didn’t come quiet as often as we expected. I think we all napped a bit on the boat back. We decided that a rest was in order (I was slowly getting sicker) and headed back to the hotel to drop off purchases and rest before dinner. I think that Chris and Gigi went back out again while I took a nap but I don’t judge. When you have my wonky back to deal with you rest when you can get it. Or you will not be able to walk at all!

Can you hear the people sing? Oh wait, wrong country....

Later on we found a fabulous place right on the water for dinner. It was a walk from our hotel and honestly I can’t remember which direction we went (I followed Gigi and his Italian-knowing directions!). This restaurant was near a bridge that was actually near another tourist/shopping area. I am sure that they get quite a few tourists but it was wonderful! Once we explained my death-like shrimp allergy to the waiter, we were good to go! I had wonderful ravioli and the boys had each some kind of pasta. And wine.  J

It was clear even after the hour plus long meal that I was fading fast. Walking along in the chilly night air wasn’t doing anything for my sickness. We headed back to the hotel as we had a few more things to accomplish before the train ride home! Gigi was wonderful enough to translate to a pharmacist (who actually spoke great English but you never know) to get me some Italian ibuprofen and cough drops. I had run out of Advil and needed something that would play nice with my blood pressure meds. So 15 Euro later I had my Italian drugs!

Bedtime!!!!

***Michelle’s tip:  Both the islands of Murano and Burano have limited bathroom facilities. Normally you need to purchase something at a restaurant/café to use the rest room. Plan accordingly. I didn’t and I was doing the pee dance as we got off the vaparetto.

Day 4: Train to Venice!

Today’s blog post will be a short one, as we didn’t do as much due to taking the train to the city of Venice. We were able to sleep in and have breakfast then meet up at the Marriott (Chris and Gigi had transferred to another hotel as my points ran out!). After storing my larger suitcase and just taking a duffel bag with me we set out for the Metro. Taking the Metro to the Termini train station (the main station in Rome) we were able to board our train to Venice. It was going to take about 3.5 hours.

The train was uneventful. We chatted. We slept. We had snacks. Normal train activity. Upon debarking in the main Venice train station Gigi bought us the correct Vaporetto. This is like a water taxi for the masses. We each bought a 24 hour unlimited pass which I think was 20 Euro. We knew that the next day we would be taking the boats to the islands of Murano and Burano so this was the most economic option.

Our hotel was the Antigo Panda. This was a hotel that Chris and Gigi had stayed at before and since there was only one Marriott way at the other end of the island we thought this would be a great option. It is not far from St. Mark’s square and after dropping off our bags we headed out into the city. Now it was starting to get dark and we knew we needed food. Also, I was starting to get sick. I was trying to ignore it but it was coming. And coming hard.

My tiny little hotel room!

A few details about the hotel. It was nice albeit small. Really small. Which is fine. But when you are used to the Marriott you should be warned. Not the Marriott! And they gave us a code for the Wi-Fi, which I never did get working for myself. I wasn’t too concerned about it because Chris was checking me in via FB and at least my family knew I was alive. I am not sure if the Wi-Fi issue was just the hotel issue or a Venice in general issue. Just be warned.

The link is below:

http://www.hotelpanada.it

We found a little place not too far from the hotel where we could get some pasta. I don’t recall the name of the place and it was kind of touristy but we collectively decided that since we were hungry and tired it was going to be the choice. It was chilly outside and with the hunger and all….

After a short walk around for a bit longer we turned in for the night. We had a lot to do the next day (our only full day in Venice) and we needed to be rested.

Just lovely!

Gondolas!

The view from my hotel room

***Michelle’s tip:  Definitely opt to take as little luggage as possible as there are no cars/taxis and you have to schlep it around with you until you get to your hotel.

Day 3: Someone went to the Colosseum and totally didn’t write on the walls!!

Tuesday looked to be a lovely warm sunny day and we headed out early because we were totally going to the Colosseum! After seeing the lines at the place on Sunday we knew that we had to be there early (just before opening) and get in line. Our strategy worked and we were there about 20 minutes before they opened and had only a short wait until admission. The price of admission (I think it was 12 Euro) included entrance into the Forum as well.

Once past security we headed up the stairs to take in the sights of the incredible amp theater built back in 80 AD. Yes, again you see pictures on TV or online but you can’t imagine it in person. Massive, with wide spaced steps and a steep incline to go up it really doesn’t disappoint. There are many great views to be had inside as well as outside the Colosseum. The early time of our arrival really made it nice because there were no crowds and you could enjoy the views. Knowing the people who died in the Colosseum for “sport” was a little daunting but this is a must not miss when in Rome. I am so glad that I was able to visit and climb to the top. (Note that the steps are quiet steep and spaced apart so it is a challenge for those of us with bad backs or if you have mobility issues. Not sure if there is any type of accommodation for the handicapped.)  ***It is worthy to mention that the day after we were there a news report came out that two American tourists were arrested for defacing the walls of the Colosseum by scratching their names into the walls. Idiots. Not me and I didn’t see anyone doing that. Idiots.

After a quick snack and coffee in the café adjoining the metro we headed off to the Forum. Now the Forum is an archeological site of ancient Rome. It is kind of hard to imagine some of the uses for the spaces but in short it is the remains of 2000-year-old temples, law courts and victory monuments. It was getting quite warm outside and the sun does seem to be hotter in this little valley of history.

We were all doing good at this point (it was maybe noonish) and decided to head out to another area of the city for some sightseeing and shopping. Well, I was shopping, the boys were just my guides!

You see I was looking for a shop in my guidebook that specialized in handmade Italian leather shoes and handbags and such. Yeah, I’m so there! It was in the Campo De Fiori section of the city. Gigi and his Italian language mastery managed to find our way to that area and we walked along stumbling upon some lovely churches and what appeared to be a library. Then I stopped dead in my tracks. A. Fabric. Store!!!!

Gigi mingling with the locals. 

Small, unobtrusive and hidden in a small side street, it was just what I loved! A local fabric shop with the most beautiful Italian silk fabric!! Of course we went in! And of course I had to buy something. According to my business card the place was called Fatucci Tessuti. Gigi had a great time chatting in Italian with the shop owner, a lovely man who no doubt gets very little tourists (based on his lack of English). Now I could have communicated enough to purchase the fabric (I have done this in the Netherlands at the fabric market in den Bosch) but having Gigi there to converse provided much needed conversation about where the silk was made (near the place George Clooney has his villa) and also gave me a little “extra” during the cutting process. I was in heaven!

Beautiful Italian silk!

Silk in hand (or in a shopping bag) we set off again for the illusive leather shop. Stopping in Camp De Fiori we visited a fabulous farmers market and then a small café in the square for a light meal. Amazing food, again!

Lunch!

Let's buy more fabric!!

Finally finding the leather shop Ibiz I was not disappointed. Guidebook says, “shoes and bags are made by hand in an onsite workshop”. Sigh…..  The saleslady was so nice and her English was really good. I bought a fabulous pair of teal sandals. They were so soft that even after walking around all day when I slipped them on my feet felt magical. The leather was like butttaaa….

http://www.ibizroma.it

After full shopping bags we headed out to grab a taxi back to the Marriott for a rest before dinner. Yes, another dinner! We were meeting David and Antonio for a wonderful meal that they said would rock our world. Apparently it is a typical Italian meal. And it did rock my world!  Called L’Orso ’80.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187791-d716336-Reviews-Orso_80-Rome_Lazio.html

The amount of food that was presented to us was incredible. Why aren’t all Roman people fat? I don’t know because if they eat like this all the time they should be. The food just kept coming.  David and Antonio are great people and the company was just as fabulous as the food. This time, I didn’t stop for gelato before because I wanted to eat. And eat I did!

L'Orso 80

After another successful meal we headed back to the hotel because we were heading out in the morning to Venice via the train! We had a mid morning train so we could sleep in a bit before heading out. Because after that meal I think I was comatose!!

***Michelle’s tip:  Don’t eat gelato before the big dinner meal. And just take pictures at the Colosseum, it’s a historical ancient site people!

Day 2: Visiting the Vatican or An ugly American in the Sistine Chapel

Monday was the day that we had set aside for visiting Vatican City. We knew that this would be a long day filled with tons of people and long lines. After a hearty Marriott breakfast we set out to the Vatican. It was colder and a little rainy today so this also reinforced our idea that this was the perfect day to visit!

Our thoughts were to visit the Vatican Museums first. They open at 9 am and we got into the line around 8:20 or so. There was still a line but not nearly as bad as it would be as the day went on. My understanding is that there is never a time when there are no lines. So plan accordingly.

There is a charge to get into the Vatican Museums (I think it was 13 Euro) but no charge to get into St. Peter’s Basilica (more on that later). Once inside the Museums you pay your admission fee, go through airport like security and head up the escalators towards the museums. Now there are TONS of things to see in the museums. I can’t even describe the artwork, tapestries, and general overall cool stuff to see there. There is way too much to see in one visit. Knowing that my back would not handle everything that we planned I wanted to go all the way to the end and visit the Sistine Chapel and then work back to some of the other things. We did that (scouting around the large Asian tour group) and although we did stop along the way to see some rooms, our main focus was heading to the Chapel.

Gigi is so excited about the escalator!

And it didn’t disappoint. Words can’t really describe how lovely this place is and how amazing Michelangelo’s ceiling is. You can see it on TV but that doesn’t do it justice.

******Alert**** Alert**** Ugly American sighting**** Alert

We interrupt this blog post to discuss the ultimate Ugly American Sighting. While in the Sistine Chapel, there are multiple signs (in different languages) that tell you NO pictures are to be taken and please be silent. It’s a holy place, after all. There are benches around the long walls of the chapel where you can sit and gaze up at the ceiling. I was sitting there with Gigi on my right quietly discussing the Apostles or Saints or something like that. When we hear/see probably 25 fee in front of us a very upset Italian museum guide reprimanding this larger American man of about 30ish. I mention that the American was larger because the Italian museum dude was about a head shorter than said American. The conversation went as follows:

Italian dude: “hey, didn’t I tell you just a moment ago NOT to take pictures”.

American: “umm, yeah”

Italian dude:  “then WHY are you taking pictures? Let me see your last picture on your phone. Why didn’t you listen?”

American:  “dunno”

Seriously, this was the conversation. American dude just shrugged like he didn’t have a care in the world. Italian dude was getting more and more angry by the second. And since Italian dude was a head shorter he kept straining his neck to look up at Ugly American. And let me tell you, Italian dude was kind of scary. My money was on him!!

The entire place went silent when all this was going on. SILENT. We looked on in amazement as Italian dude then dragged off Ugly American out the gates to the back of the chapel and to God knows where. I assume that he was going to have the Pope pull out his fingernails and then be turned over to the Dementors.

So! After that little performance we kind of just wandered out to the rest of the museum. Because once you gaze at the Sistine Chapel and see someone dragged off by Italian dude for being an idiot, well that was all there was to see. After a quick snack and bathroom break in the café, we headed outside and around the museum towards St. Peter’s square and the Basilica.

Public praying?

There is no admission fee to get into the Basilica, but you do have to go through security and the lines are incredibly long to get in. People come from all over the world to see the world’s most famous church and the head of Catholicism. Being Catholic myself I know that seeing this church really was something that was a lifelong dream. It’s important, it’s holy and dammit I am going to stand in line for as long as it takes!!

Turns out it takes about an hour in line. Approximately. I can’t even imagine what this looks like in the summer or warmer months. And my back was killing me for standing in line on those cobblestones! But we made it and it really was amazing. Another one of those “words cannot describe” moments. There were quite a few people in the basilica but honestly I didn’t feel crowded because it is such a huge church.

The famous Michelangelo status "Pieta"

Swiss guard doing their thing!

After our St. Peter’s visit we knew we needed food and a lot of it! I also needed to sit down before I fell down! So we headed out to one of the side streets near the Vatican. I know that these places are often touristy but we knew that. Gigi negotiated us down a couple side streets until we found a lovely little sidewalk café/restaurant (it had stopped raining by then).

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187791-d4244905-Reviews-Alberto_e_Graziella-Rome_Lazio.html

Let me tell you, this place was amazing! For just stumbling upon it we made an excellent choice. Gigi’s mastery of Italian helped out the grandmotherly-like woman who owned/served the restaurant. I could just see her in the back whipping up the spaghetti sauce in this tiny little kitchen. We had a wonderful buffalo mozzarella with tomatoes and basil and then this amazing type of spaghetti. Such an amazing way to top off the Vatican experience. We sat out on the sidewalk and took our time and ate, and ate, and then ate some more!

Amazing!

Bellies full and back slightly rested we headed back to the hotel. By now it was probably 3pm and we knew that we were meeting some friends (again!) for dinner. Ricardo and Fabio wanted to take us to their most favorite pizza place in Rome. Yes, please!!

Once sufficiently rested ( I am pretty sure I took a nap) we headed out again in the evening. Our dinner reservations were for 8 but we set out early because I wanted Gelato! I had been in Rome 2 days and had not had any yet and by God, I was getting my gelato!! We found a place a short distance from the restaurant and proceeded to partake of the gelato. A tiny little park was close and we sat on the benches eating gelato and generally watching the world go by. Lovely!

The pizza place is called Alle Carrette and the TA link is below. We sat and had amazing food (although I was slightly full from the gelato) and chatted and had a general good time. I know that I mentioned that meeting up with the locals and going to less touristy places are the way to go but I’m going to say it again. Because it is. It really is!  And bonus is that your new friends can give you a ride to your hotel in their snazzy Italian Mini Cooper!

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187791-d1231075-Reviews-Alle_Carrette-Rome_Lazio.html

***Michelle’s tip:  Get to the Vatican Museums early and for the love of God, don’t take pictures!